Tiling in Nottingham
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If you're having a bathroom refitted, tiling in Nottingham is rarely a job you can leave until last. It has to happen at the right point in the sequence - after any wall alterations and waterproofing, but before the sanitaryware goes back in - and it needs to be done by someone who knows what's underneath the surface they're tiling onto, not just how to cut a straight line. We've been tiling bathrooms across Nottingham and the surrounding area for 20 years as part of a family-run business, and it's usually one part of a bigger refit rather than a standalone job, though we do take on stand-alone tiling, re-grouting and repair work too.
Tiling almost always overlaps with other trades - a repositioned shower waste, a moved stopcock, a new heated towel rail - so it helps that our plumbing team works to the same job schedule as the tilers rather than being a separate contractor you have to chase up. That coordination matters more than people expect: half the tiling problems we get called out to fix in other people's bathrooms trace back to tiling being done before the wall behind it was properly prepared or waterproofed.
What our tiling service actually covers
- Full wall tiling - part-height around the bath or shower, or floor-to-ceiling through the whole room
- Floor tiling, including levelling an uneven subfloor before the tiles go down
- Tanking and waterproof membrane behind tiles in shower enclosures and wet room floors
- Stripping out and disposing of old tiles and adhesive before retiling
- Backer board or ply overboarding on stud and dry-lined walls so large-format tiles have something solid to key into
- Precise cutting around toilets, basin pedestals, waste pipes, extractor ducting and shaver sockets
- Grouting, silicone sealing around baths, shower trays and internal corners, and edge trims or beading where a tiled surface meets paint or plaster
- Tiling over an existing underfloor heating mat where the heating system itself has already been installed and tested
- Standalone re-grouting, silicone resealing and repair of cracked or loose tiles on an existing bathroom, without a full retile
Not Included / Costed Separately
- The tiles themselves - we'll happily fit tiles you've bought, or source and supply them for you, but a labour-only quote assumes you're providing the tiles
- Installing the underfloor heating mat and wiring it in - that's electrical work carried out separately by a Part P approved installer before we tile over it
- Structural repairs to the wall or floor found once we start - a rotten stud, crumbling brick, or a subfloor that needs replacing rather than levelling is priced as extra work once we can see it
- Ongoing sealing and maintenance of natural stone tiles after the job - we'll advise you on it, but ongoing upkeep is down to you
- Tiling outside the bathroom itself, such as a kitchen splashback or hallway floor, which we'll happily quote as a separate job
- Lead times on imported, bespoke or discontinued tiles - if you've set your heart on something with a long supplier lead time, that timeframe sits outside our control
How a tiling job with us actually runs
- Enquiry and rough scope -- You tell us whether this is tiling as part of a full bathroom refit or a standalone job - retiling an existing bathroom, re-grouting, or fixing a handful of cracked tiles. That shapes whether we need to book a site visit or can give you a ballpark over the phone first.
- Site visit and assessment -- We look at the actual wall and floor construction, not just the room - solid masonry or stud/dry-lined plasterboard, whether there's existing tanking, any damp staining, and whether the floor is level enough to tile straight onto or needs building up first. This is also when we check whether any underfloor heating or plumbing moves need to happen before tiling starts.
- Tile selection and sourcing -- If you've already chosen your tiles, we'll work to those. If not, we can talk you through porcelain, ceramic, natural stone and glass options against what the room actually needs - a wet room floor and a splashback behind a basin have different practical requirements, whatever looks good in the showroom.
- Substrate prep and waterproofing -- Old tiles and adhesive come off, the wall or floor gets built up or reinforced where needed (backer board over stud walls for anything large-format or heavy), and shower enclosures and wet room floors get tanked with a waterproof membrane before a single tile goes on.
- Tiling, grouting and sealing -- Tiles are set out, cut around fittings and pipework, and left to bed in before grouting. Silicone sealing goes in last around baths, shower trays and internal corners - it's the joint that moves with the room, so it's done separately from the rigid grout lines.
- Finishing and sign-off -- We check grout lines, silicone joints and any cut edges before calling the job finished, and it's covered off in the formal completion sign-off along with the rest of the bathroom work if it's part of a bigger project.
What tiling costs
Bathroom tiling in the UK typically runs at roughly £80-£130 per square metre supply and fit for a mid-range job, with the full range stretching from around £35/m2 for basic ceramic on straightforward walls up to £140/m2 or more for large-format porcelain, natural stone, or anything needing extra substrate work. If you're supplying your own tiles and just want the labour, that's typically around £40-£70/m2 on its own (figures drawn from Checkatrade's and MyJobQuote's 2026 tiling cost guides, which is a fair reflection of what we see quoting jobs across Nottingham). Where your job actually falls in that range depends on things a phone call can't tell us - whether the wall is solid masonry or stud, whether it needs tanking, whether old tiles need stripping off first, and how much cutting a floor plan with an awkward pipe run or a corner shower tray involves. A

full, accurate quote needs a site visit rather than a guess over the phone, and we'd always rather give you a number based on what's actually behind your walls than a figure that changes once we start.
Tiling done this way versus the alternatives
| What matters | DIY tiling | Tile shop's own fitting service | Nottingham Bathroom Fitter |
|---|---|---|---|
| Checks the wall type before tiling (stud vs solid, existing damp) | Depends how much you know to look for | Sometimes, if it's flagged | Always, at the site visit |
| Waterproof tanking behind tiles in wet areas | Often skipped or done with the wrong product | Usually offered as an extra | Included where the area needs it |
| Coordinates with plumbing and electrical work on the same job | You're managing the sequencing yourself | Not usually - separate contractor, separate schedule | Same in-house team, one schedule |
| Guarantee on the tiling workmanship | None | Varies by fitter | 5-Year Labour and Installation Guarantee |
| Handles removal and disposal of old tiles | You're doing the skip run yourself | Sometimes at extra cost | Included, cleared by a licensed carrier |
Why bother getting a bathroom fitter to do your tiling
Tiling looks like a job you could learn from a video, and plenty of people do a reasonable job of it on a straightforward flat wall. Where it goes wrong is everything underneath and around the tiles - the waterproofing, the wall type, the way it lines up with the plumbing and electrics that were fitted before it. We've been doing this as a family-run business for 20 years, and the same small team of tradespeople has mostly been with us since we started, so the person tiling your bathroom isn't a stranger picked up for the day. Plumbing on our jobs is carried out to NVQ Level 2 and City & Guilds standard, electrical work by Part P approved installers, and where plastering is needed alongside tiling, it's done by someone with 40 years in the trade - which matters for tiling because a badly plastered or unlevelled wall is the single most common reason tiles crack or come away later. Every job gets a written contract before we start and a formal sign-off once it's done, backed by a 5-Year Labour and Installation Guarantee on the work and 2 years on any products we supply.
Where we cover
Nottingham is where most of our tiling work happens, and the city's older housing stock changes what a tiling job actually involves. Victorian and Edwardian terraces around areas like Sneinton, Lenton and Radford were built as solid brick walls without a cavity, so they're more prone to rising and penetrating damp than newer stock - if that dampness is already in the wall, tiling straight over it just traps the problem behind a waterproof surface instead of fixing it, which is exactly the sort of thing we check for on the site visit rather than after the tiles are up. Newer estates around Clifton and Wollaton tend to have stud or dry-lined bathroom walls instead of solid masonry, which is the opposite problem: those walls need backer board or additional fixing points before large-format porcelain goes up, because plasterboard alone won't reliably hold the weight. We also cover Nottinghamshire more broadly, plus Derby, Derbyshire and Doncaster - the same checks on wall type, damp and substrate apply wherever the job is. One genuine seasonal factor: tiling in an unheated property over winter takes longer than the same job in summer, because tile adhesive and grout cure more slowly in the cold, and we build that into the schedule on winter jobs rather than rushing a wet mix.
Got Questions?
Frequently Asked Questions
How much does it cost to tile a bathroom in Nottingham?
As a rough guide, supply and fit typically runs £80-£130 per square metre for a mid-range job, with the overall range spanning roughly £35-£140/m2 depending on tile type and how much substrate work is needed. Labour-only, if you're supplying the tiles yourself, is usually around £40-£70/m2. A firm figure for your bathroom needs a site visit, since wall type, damp, and how much old tiling needs stripping out all move that number.
Should I tile the whole bathroom or just around the bath and shower?
Full tiling around wet areas - inside the shower and around the bath - is the part that genuinely needs to be waterproof. Beyond that, it's a judgment call: half-height tiling with painted or panelled wall above it is cheaper and still practical, while floor-to-ceiling tiling is easier to keep clean and looks more finished, but costs more in tiles and labour. We'll give you a straight answer on which makes sense for your room and budget rather than just upselling the bigger job.
How long does bathroom tiling take?
For an average bathroom, tiling itself typically takes two to four days once the walls and floor are prepped, plus time for adhesive to cure before grouting. As part of a full refit it runs alongside other trades, so the overall project timeline is usually longer than the tiling on its own. Winter jobs in an unheated property can add extra days because adhesive and grout cure more slowly in the cold - we factor that into the schedule rather than grouting too early.
Can you tile over existing tiles?
Sometimes, but we're honest that it's not always the right call. It can work if the existing tiles are sound, flat and well-bonded, but it adds weight and thickness to the wall, can affect how well silicone and grout bond at edges, and it means you never find out what condition the wall behind the old tiles is actually in - which matters most in older properties where damp or a failed waterproof membrane could be hiding underneath. Where we're not confident the existing tiling is sound, we'll recommend stripping back rather than tiling over a problem.
Do I need special grout or tanking for a wet room or shower area?
Yes. Wet rooms and shower enclosures need a waterproof tanking membrane applied to the wall and floor before tiling, not just a standard grout, because water gets behind the tile joints over time regardless of how good the grouting is. Standard bathroom areas that only get occasional splashing don't need the same level of tanking, which is one of the things we assess room by room rather than applying a blanket rule.
What's the real difference between ceramic and porcelain tiles for a bathroom?
Porcelain is denser and less porous than ceramic, so it copes better with constant wet conditions, heavy floor traffic and is less prone to absorbing moisture over time. Ceramic is usually cheaper and easier to cut, and is perfectly fine for walls and lower-traffic areas. For a shower floor or wet room, porcelain is generally the better long-term choice; for a splashback or half-height wall tiling, ceramic often does the job for less money.
Can large-format porcelain slabs be fitted on stud or timber bathroom walls without extra reinforcement?
Not reliably, no. Large-format porcelain is heavy, and plasterboard on its own, especially over a timber stud wall, isn't always rigid or strong enough to carry it without flexing, which is how grout lines crack and tiles come away later. On stud walls we'll typically add backer board, ply overboarding, or extra noggins between studs to give the tile something solid and flat to key into before it goes up - it's part of what we check on the site visit rather than something you find out about once the tiles are already ordered.
How do you tile around an underfloor heating mat without damaging it?
Carefully, and only once the heating system itself has been installed, tested and signed off by the electrician - we don't tile over a mat that hasn't been checked first. Tile adhesive goes over the mat in a thin, even bed using a notched trowel so there's no dragging or puncturing of the heating elements or wiring, and we avoid drilling or fixing anything through the floor in that area. The heating installation itself is a separate electrical job to the tiling.
Do you supply the tiles, or do I need to buy my own?
Either way works. If you've already picked tiles you like, we'll fit those. If you'd rather we source them, we can supply and fit as part of the job, which also means the 2-year product guarantee applies to what we've supplied. Labour-only pricing assumes you're providing the tiles.
Get your tiling looked at before it's a bigger job
A cracked tile or a grout line that's started to go isn't just cosmetic - it's usually water finding a way behind the surface, and that gets more expensive to put right the longer it's left, especially through a Nottingham winter when things dry out more slowly. Whether you need a full retile, a wet room tanked properly, or just the grout and silicone brought back to how it should look, get in touch and we'll come and take a proper look at what's actually going on behind your tiles, not just what's on the surface.
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